Koli National Park in Finland: Great family adventure!

Last week we went to Koli National Park in Lieksa, in eastern Finland. This is a fantastic place not only for adult hikers and trekkers, but also for families with children! It is also a great place to enjoy the midnight sun in summer - long days mean plenty of time to see everything. And it is a national park, so visiting is free of charge. To get to the places described below, you'll need a car (and for one place mentioned, a rented rowboat).

We live in Finland where there's forest and lakes aplenty, so for us the the big draw was the unusual rock formations and great views. And we were not disappointed. Koli is a long rocky ridge that used to be a high mountain range, now all that's left is the hardest rock, rounded and smoothed by time and glaciers. 

It turns out there was much to see and do in Koli. First, we rented a holiday log cabin online. The cabin was located in the area known as Lomakoli, about 7 kilometres from Koli village center (where there's a shop to buy food and basic supplies) and 9 km from the start of the shortest trek to the outcroppings that are the most popular lookout spots with visitors: Ukko-Koli (Old Man's Rock), Akka-Koli (Old Woman's Rock) and Paha-Koli (Evil Rock). The cabin owner was helpful and even met us on the way to Koli to give us lifejackets for the rented rowboat.

Although our holiday cabin was surrounded by other holiday cabins, it was very peaceful, with views of Lake Pielinen that was just a 70 meter walk down the path. There was a dock from which the kids could jump into the (admittedly cold) lake water and swim. Our cabin had a kitchen (with microwave, refrigerator, stove and dishwasher), indoor toilet, sauna, clotheswashing machine and drying cupboard (where you just hang your clothes, close the door and turn it on - it dries wet laundry within a few hours). All we needed to bring was our own sheets and towels. Cleaning services were included in the rental fee. The cottage also had a charcoal grill, that we used every evening!

What to do in Koli (our itinerary for 6 days):

Each of the excursions below will keep your family busy for 2-3 hours if you are staying in or near Koli village.

Day 1: Ukko-Koli, Akka-Koli, Paha-Koli (trail starts 3.5 km from Koli village, walk/climb is 1.4 km to the end of the look-out area)

This was a fantastic experience. You drive to the Ukko Luontokeskus/Sokos Hotel (3.5 km from Koli village center). From the upper-level parking lot there is a large elevator that takes you to the top of the mountain, where you start the trek. First, you climb up a flight of wooden stairs, then follow the (more or less) flat trail that leads to the different giant rock formations and look-out spots. Climbing up the stairs and (mostly smoothish) rocks requires a little effort for the less-athletically-inclined, but for our energetic children (aged 10 and 12 years old) it was no problem. Hiking shoes are definitely recommended. This was a lot of fun for all ages, as the bare rock formations and distant views over Finnish lakes and forest are definitely something out of the ordinary. Follow the trail forward, it takes you back to the parking lot.

Note to parents: many of the rock formations have gentle slopes on the other side that means visitors can't fall over the edge, but there are a few sheer drops where one has to keep an eye on the kids, especially smaller children, since there are no railings. But we saw plenty of families with smaller children here, and everyone seemed to be having a good time. Ice cream is available from the Sokos Hotel cafe at the start/end of the trek.

Day 2: Pirunkirkko (Devil's church, 12 km drive from Koli village center, 150 meter walk, then stairs down to the rock formations)

This is an interesting jumble of giant boulders which have formed a three-chamber cave at the bottom of a hillside. If you drive along Rantatie, you come upon a small parking lot with a tiny wooden sign pointing to a path through the forest. You walk for about 150 meters before coming to a metal staircase (with railings) leading downward. Follow it to the fantastic jumble of boulders and the Devil's Church itself. The opening to the 'church' is large enough for an adult to fit through (although a bit of a challenge for claustrophobics like me!) A flashlight is not necessary, because when you get past the first chamber the cave is open to the sky. The 'church' is fun for kids and perfectly safe, even if there are some other deep cracks nearby - formed by the fallen jumble of boulders - that are fun to look at, but you wouldn't want to fall into them!  

Day 3: Rowing to the Sand Islands (Hiekkasaaret)

The location of our cabin in Lomakoli meant that with 45 minutes of rowing in our rowboat, we could go to Hiekkasaaret (Sand Islands), which are a pair of uninhabited islands with some forest and sandy beaches and round rocks. Our kids enjoyed swimming at the island beach. A few other holiday-goers had arrived there ahead of us, but shared their bonfire spot with us as we grilled our Finnish sausages (wood for the fire is supplied for free in a woodshed at the end of the easternmost island, and there might be a woodshed on the other island also, not sure). There are also basic restroom facilities (no running water) on the eastern island. Bring water and food with you since there is none on the island, they can come in handy, especially if you're not a fast rower and find that the trip takes a bit longer than expected... 

Day 4: Excursion to Kaiskuniemi peninsula (11 km from Koli village, 4 km walk round trip to the end of the peninsula)

This wonderful secluded place is Finnish summer nature at its best. Drive north towards Hattusaari to Niinilahdentie, after Niinilahti you turn right, and keep going until you get to a tiny parking lot and a sign that says "Polku" (path). Walk 700 meters through the forest, after that you are on an esker ridge with views of Pielinen lake on both sides. Keep walking and you'll reach a place where the peninsula is just a narrow strip of rocks leading to the next forested, boulder-dotted esker (dry land to walk across if you are lucky, a shallow wade (15 cm deep max) across if the water level is a bit higher, as we found in our case - rubber flip flop sandals definitely needed for this!)

There were beaches in the final part of the peninsula to swim in, pretty round rocks, and apparently untouched natural forest. You don't have to walk all the way to end of the peninsula to enjoy this. Many thanks to a Finnish blogger for writing about this - it's not mentioned anywhere on the maps or brochures, and we never saw another person the whole time we were there. The place is truly a treat!

Day 5: Tarhapuro Waterfall (3 km from the Koli harbor, 1 km walk + climb up the rocks)

This was a pretty hike and well worth the climb to the waterfall over giant moss-covered boulders and gnarled tree roots (like a forest from a fantasy novel!). The climb was not very physically challenging but it was a bit difficult for those (like me) who don't have great balance. Having somebody more nimble to lend you a hand to the next rock can help. There is a sort of path up the rocks, but in some places you have to connect the dots yourself. Our kids had no problem with the climb. Even without climbing on the rocks, from the end of the path you can see part of the waterfall (and all of the gigantic boulders). Apparently the waterfall is bigger in the spring with the snow runoff, but even at the start of July it was still there.

Drive east from Koli village to the harbour (satama) and then south along Rantatie for about 2.5 km until you come to the Likolahti parking lot (on the right side of the road if you're driving south). From the road you can see a sign pointing to the path to Tarhapuro.

Day 6: Pieni-Koli (3 km from the Koli harbor, 1.5 km uphill walk from the Likolahti parking lot to the top)

This was a walk up the hill through a lush fern forest. At the summit, the rocky outcropping of Pieni-Koli (Little Rock) looks out across a small valley to the grey rock cliffs south of Paha-Koli. The slope was a little steep in some places, but easily accessible with hiking shoes, and our children had no problem with it. The hike was definitely worth it - at the end there are nice views and a giant boulder that our kids enjoyed sitting on.

Drive south 3 km from the Koli harbour (satama) and park your car in the Likolahti parking spot next to the road. Start walking back north past the lake on your right until you come to the small sign on the left side of the road pointing to the path to Pieni-Koli. Once on the path, on your right you will eventually pass an old green bench that has seen better days, then a look-out spot with a nicer bench. Keep going a bit further and you'll come to the signs that tell you to make a sharp left turn to Pieni-Koli: you're almost there!  

Things that you will need for your Koli adventure:

mosquito repellent

charcoal and lighter fluid for grilling, if you are renting a cabin and want to grill outdoors

Buy a detailed map of Koli National Park for 5 euros from Ukko Luontokeskus (Nature Center)/Sokos Hotel

Hiking shoes for everybody

A jacket/raincoat (Finnish summer weather can be variable)

water bottle

rubber flip-flop sandals for wading in lake bottoms (the rocks at the bottom of the lakes are usually not sharp, but they can be uncomfortable to walk on barefoot).

Keywords: perhe loma family holiday vacation Finland Karelia Karjala mökki cabin cottage hiking retkeily patikointi lapset children advice activities active rowing lakes